History of surf.
Surfing is one of the oldest practiced sports on the planet. Surfing is also one of the few sports that creates its own culture.
The act of riding waves with a wooden board originated in Western Polynesia over three thousand years ago. The first surfers were fishermen.
Early historical records of surfing appear in the late 1700s, when Europeans and Polynesians made first contact in Tahiti. Only three types of trees were picked to make a board.
There were four basic boards in Hawaii:
- The paipo or kioe, a body board, from 2-to-4 feet long, usually used by children.
- The alaia (ah-LAI-ah) or omo (O-mo), a mid-sized board, about 8 feet or longer.
- The kiko`o, larger than the alaia, but not as big as the biggest boards; between 12 and 18 feet; good for bigger surf, but requiring a high level of skill to handle.
- The olo (O-lo), a very long surfboard reserved for royalty that could be as long as 18-to-24 feet in length.
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